JOURNAL · INGREDIENT STORIES · 2 MIN READ
Star anise: a familiar spice, the warm note in Golden Bamboo
Among the bright notes of golden bamboo and fruit lies a gentle warm note, from the star-shaped fruit Vietnamese cooks know from the soup pot.
Some scents we know before we can name them. For many Vietnamese, star anise is one of them: drifting from the kitchen on weekend mornings, sweet yet spicy, warm without being heavy. In perfumery, that very warmth makes anise a precious note, even though only a tiny amount is needed.
A star from the northern mountains
The star anise we use is actually the fruit of the anise tree, Illicium verum. The fruit usually has eight segments arranged in a star, each holding a small glossy seed. The tree likes the cool climate of the northern hills; Lạng Sơn, Quảng Ninh and Cao Bằng are well-known growing areas, and Vietnam is one of the world's major sources of star anise.
From dried fruit to essential oil
Star anise oil is steam-distilled from the fruit, sometimes together with leaves and young twigs. Its main component is anethole, the molecule behind the liquorice-like sweetness we recognise instantly. A small bottle holds the concentrate of a great many fruits, so perfumers use it drop by drop.
A small caution: Vietnamese star anise (Illicium verum) is different from Japanese star anise (Illicium anisatum), a similar-looking species that is not used in food. In perfumery the botanical name is always written in full to avoid confusion.
A drop of anise doesn't make a scent spicy.
It makes it warmer.
Anise in perfumery
In a formula, anise rarely stands alone. It works like a warm thread: drawing floral notes together, softening the sharp edge of citrus and building a bridge to the woody base. Overdone, it recalls the kitchen; used just right, it leaves only a pleasant feeling that is hard to name.
The warm beat of Golden Bamboo
Golden Bamboo opens with satsuma, lime and Fuji apple, bright and crisp as early morning. At the heart, star anise sits beside Sun Goddess rose: the rose softens and the anise adds a warm touch of spice. As the base of cedar, sandalwood and amber settles, the whole fragrance moves seamlessly from fresh to smooth, which is why Golden Bamboo suits lobbies with people passing through all day.
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